The salt, rinse aid, wash and end lights are all flashing on my Hotpoint Aquarius. Can you help?

Hi Paul,
The dishwasher empties at start of program but does not take in water. My first thought is a fault with inlet valve but having watched your videos and read how it works, I wonder is it worth replacing the impeller jug also?
Thanks,
Steve.

Hi,

Our indesit dishwasher DIFP18B1 defaults to a flashing 5 no matter what program is selected. Sometimes it works and then others it just defaults to the flashing ‘5’ on the LED integrated panel.

Hi Paul, looking for some help here. I am looking at a dishwasher that falls up and circulation pump kicks in however only get water coming out of lower wash arm. I suspect the circulation pump is at fault? However, I would suspect water coming out of lower wash arm instead of top? Any info would be appreciated.

Ian

Hi,
This started a few weeks ago. The error code was intermittent, and just banging the door cleared it. I cleaned the filter, checked the air gap and hose to disposal to ensure they were clear. I also cleaned the water inlet where there are debris filters and found they were almost clogged with calcium. That made it worse. E 24 stayed on. Replaced the control panel in door top, the drain motor, the check valve, and cleaned the matrix. Had a e15 after running having cleared the E 24. Took it apart and cleaned the water. It ran successfully but kept running with 17 minutes Displayed on screen. What may I be missing?

Dishwasher runs through cycle, it fills with water and empties at end but the water doesn’t get pumped through the spray arms fast enough to make them spin. Also the cycle is taking longer than it should. What do you think is the fault?

my bosch dishwasher works on rinse program, and 45c program but sometimes stops at the rinse cycle in 65c program and flashes the tap red light, what could be the problem?

just flashes what looks like code AL 01

All the lights are flashing when I try to start a wash.

Hi – Beko DW686.

Our Dishwasher didn’t drain so I took of the lower panel and saw a blocked pipe from the sump. I cleared the block and the dishwasher worked again for 2 or 3 washes.
It then got stuck on drain again. I took the lower panel off and it had some water in it causing the float/flood switch to engage. I looked for leaks in the pipe I had unblocked but it seemed alright.

I cleared the water in the lower tray and restarted the machine. What seemed to be happening is the machine is draining then filling. It then stops for a minute or two and starts filling again, it keeps doing this until it floods, trips the float switch, and drains again.

I ran the diagnostic test and it says it’s not getting any water, but it’s the opposite; it’s getting too much water.

So I checked the inlet impeller- which is spinning fine. I then removed and checked the reed switch in front of the inlet impeller and that has continuity when I put a magnet near it. So that seems to be fine. I checked the wires from the reed switch to the main board and there is continuity there as well.

I put a multimeter (on continuity) on the reed-switch pads whilst the dishwasher was filling and expected the multimeter tone to go on and off but it remained silent -do you think it’s because the impeller spins too fast for the meter to register, or is it evidence that the switch is not working well enough.

Could the magnet on the impeller have lost charge? or could the reed switch not be sensitive enough any more?

There seems to be another reed switch on the salt dispenser/water purifier unit. It has what I though was a float magnet switch near it so I though that perhaps it was not floating properly,
I drained the salt dispenser and removed it and the magnet moves freely when I tip the unit upside down.
I also removed the switch from near the magnet (whilst it’s still wired) to simulate the magnet part moving but that had no effect.
DO you know what this reed switch/magnet are for?

I’m stuck now I’m not sure what else could cause the diagnostic to think there is no water.

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