Hi
i have the Candy CSOEC8TBGB-80 condenser tumble dryer stripped down, i have watched the video on how to replace the capacitor but i am just worried it could be something different as the humming noise it is making is the same however when i roll the drum, it does not kick in and spin, it just dies off, belt is in good condition, drum does move. just not continuously.
i don’t mind buying the the capacitor online when i find it but just wondering if it is something else also

Hello. I’ve watched your various videos on the above. Very good thank you. I have a Zanussi ZDC8203W Condenser Tumble Dryer.
The mains power is reaching the heater unit and checked across both connectors with m/meter and it’s 240. There is no continuity beep however across the terminals when the mains connectors are removed. Does this mean the element itself needs replacing. If so do you supply these?
Sorry I’m not sure how to upload a vid to YouTube but can send a photo if that’s possible
Thanks
Neil

Hello,
I have a Hoover VHC681B condenser dryer whose filter light is constantly blinking. The heater had stopped working last week so using your fault finding videos I narrowed it down to the NTC sensor which I replaced. The heater is now working but the filter light still blinks. I notice the dryer doesn’t stop when the clothes are dry so has to be manually turned off.The thermostats on the heater element have continuity. I am suspecting the pcb at this stage. Would you be able to help me

Hi love all your videos. I have a Beko DCU8230 Condenser Tumble Dryer. I couldnt find one that showed how to change the front felt support system. The dryer works fine, its clean but it is noisy. There is a lot of play at the front of the machine suggesting the felt and associated bearing pads need replacing. Can you help? Many thanks martin

TVM for the advice on your YT channel video.
My Zanussi ZDC8202P Condenser Tumble Dryer heater unit (manufactured 2009) has exact same connector type, except that the white-sheathed earth runs separately alongside from the terminal block through the rubber grommet then terminates at a clamp on top of the heater unit housing.
The grommet on mine is oblong and looks like I’ll have to slit the opening a bit with knife in order to pull through both cables as well as the terminal block.
I’m waiting for new heater part, but I’m doubtful whether it will be like my old one. Assuming it is the same as in your video, any tips to adapt the wiring to suit my machine please?
Tim