Dealing with a Bosch WAN28259GB washing machine that won’t drain or empty is one of the most common service calls we get. If your Bosch or Siemens washing machine is flashing the E36-10 error code (or the older E18 or E03 on classic models), it’s telling you one thing: washing machine couldn’t drain the water within the allocated time.

As an engineer who’s seen it all for the last four decades, I can tell you that 99% of the time, this isn’t a terminal fault but a blockage or a simple pump failure.

The specific machine featured in our video is a Bosch WAN28259GB washer but honestly, the checks we do will help you with almost any Bosch (BSH Hausgeräte GmbH) make washing machines that’s giving you trouble and it is valid for all these brands: Siemens, Neff, Gaggenau, Thermador, Balay, Constructa, Pitsos, Profilo, Coldex, Junker, Viva, Ufesa.

In the video, I’m also calling out all manufacturers for building planned obsolescence into their machines with sealed washing machine drums. PLEASE, leave a comment below or to the video and share your thoughts on this consumer rip-off!

(YOU CAN VISIT THIS PAGE TO CHECK THE WIRING DIAGRAM, SERVICE MANUAL, & EXPLODED VIEW OF THE MACHINE.)

Here is your comprehensive, step-by-step repair guide to clear that error and get your wash running again.

Step 1: External Checks – The Quick Wins

  1. Stop the Beeping: First, turn the program selector dial to the off position to cancel the error and silence that irritating beep.
  2. Inspect the Waste Pipe (A Common Culprit): Manufacturers today are cutting corners, often failing to supply a waste pipe support. If you’ve been running hot washes (like a 90° cycle), that heat can soften the pipe, causing it to collapse and restrict the flow of water leaving the machine. Pull the machine out and ensure the waste hose is completely unrestricted.
  3. Check the Sink Connection: If your machine is plumbed into a sink unit, check the U-bend fitting. Lint and debris from washing can cause a significant blockage here, stopping the water before it even leaves your house plumbing.

Step 2: Draining the System and Accessing the Drum

Since the machine is full of water, we need to drain it safely before we can open the pump.

  1. Safety First: Unplug the Machine. This is non-negotiable before working on any appliance.
  2. Drain the Water: Locate the inspection flap at the bottom front of the machine. Pull out the drain-down pipe and remove the plug. Use a small, shallow tray and empty the water in stages. This can be tedious, but it prevents a flood.
  3. Open the Door: Once drained, the door may open. If not, look for the emergency pull cord (usually a small, colored wire. You can see it on the video.) located in the bottom right-hand corner of the filter housing area. Pulling this down will manually release the door latch.
  4. Remove Wet Clothing: Take the wet laundry out, and give the drain pipe one last pull to remove any remaining water.

Step 3: Inspecting the Pump Filter and Clearing Debris

The pump filter is the most likely place to find a blockage.

  1. Remove the Filter: Turn the filter anticlockwise to remove it. Be prepared for a little more water and have a towel ready.
  2. Filter Warning: DO NOT FORCE IT. If the filter won’t turn, it means something solid, like a coin, is wedged between the filter and the pump impeller, preventing rotation. Forcing it will break the plastic filter cap. If it’s stuck, you will need to separate the pump motor from the housing (see Step 5).
  3. Clear the Blockage: Once out, check the filter for coins, screws, buttons, or other debris. Even a small object can cause the pump housing to slightly separate, which can stop the pump from working correctly.

Step 4: Deeper Internal Pump & Sump Hose Faults

If the filter is clear, the problem is deeper in the system.

Pump Impeller Issues

  1. Simple Check: Look into the pump housing where the filter sits and inspect the impeller.
  2. Fabric/Elastic Blockage: Check for elastic bands, remnants of fabric, or long hair wrapped around the impeller blade. This can severely restrict its turning.
  3. Sheared Impeller: This is a classic fault. If a coin gets into the impeller and the pump motor keeps turning, it can shear the plastic impeller off the internal metal motor shaft. The motor will spin perfectly, but the impeller, under the load of water, won’t turn, meaning no water is moved

The Sump Hose Check

  1. Blockage: If the pump looks clear, we look for blockages between the drum and the pump.
  2. Access: Tilt the machine backwards (or remove the front panel).
  3. Locate: Identify the sump hose which the large hose connecting the base of the drum to the pump inlet.
  4. Inspect: Undo the hose clamp (Torx 15 or 20 screw. You can find the affiliate links for the Torx set and multimeter in the video description.) and peel the hose away from the drum. Check the hose for any lodged debris.
  5. The Anti-Siphon Ball: Inside the sump hose, you will find an anti-siphon device (it looks like a golf ball). This is designed to prevent detergent from draining too early. Inspect the area around this ball for blockages.

Step 5: Advanced Diagnosis & Electrical Faults

If you’ve checked for and cleared all blockages, the issue is electrical: either the pump has failed or the circuit board (PCB) is not sending power.

  1. Separating the Pump Housing (For Stuck Filters or Replacement):
    • The pump motor is attached to the housing via a twist-fit mechanism.
    • Locate the small tabs on the housing (often two of them). Press these tabs down while rotating the motor unit in an anticlockwise direction.
    • This separates the motor from the housing, allowing you to easily clear the internal blockage that was locking the filter, or replace the entire pump unit.
  1. Testing the Pump Motor:
    • Voltage Check: Use a multimeter to check the voltage going to the pump motor electrical plug when the machine is set to drain. This will tell you if the PCB is faulty. (You can find the affiliate links for the Torx set and multimeter in the video description.)
    • Bench Test (Expert Method): Most Bosch/Siemens pumps are AC 230V-240V. You can remove the pump and connect it directly to a separate mains power supply to confirm if the motor impeller spins freely and vigorously. If it fails this test, the pump is faulty and needs replacing.

If you’ve cleared the blockage or replaced the faulty pump, the error code should clear automatically when you run a rinse or spin cycle. If you still have problems, please don’t hesitate to record a short video of the problem on your mobile and send us the link via our contact page, as that always helps us diagnose.

We hope this guide has given you the confidence to tackle a repair on your Beko washing machine. For a full visual walkthrough and dismantling process, make sure to check out the video on our YouTube channel.

You can find spare parts for these Bosch washing machines, including new pumps and filters below.

Bosch WAN28259GB Washing Machine Spare Parts:

If you have any questions about your washing machine, please provide your brand, full model number which is written on the identification label, and a detailed description of the issue. Please visit our Contact Us page and make sure you fill out the request for what your problem is. A video shoot of the problem would be perfect as well.

If you found this guide helpful, consider supporting us by clicking on the Buy Paul a Beer link to help us continue making repair videos and guides.

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