Terminal block on motor has eight positions with six actual steel pins + earth pin. Washing machine motor was noisy then eventually seized (tub bearings are fine – not noisy, and no play with them). Brushes were all good – replaced a year ago. Rear bearing on motor shaft had seized and partially broken up – couldn’t turn motor shaft. Bearing shop removed the back bearing (next to the tacho) and also the front bearing (near the pulley) and replaced them.Put motor back in and water and everything fill fine (PCB panel seems to be all good -indicator lights working and clicks when it should). Motor starts moving then stops – doesn’t keep going. Is it the tacho? I have a DMM – are there any basic checks I can do? I checked the supression capacitor, but it looks fine! Motor looks fine with no observable damage. Stumped! Can you suggest anything?
Paul Reynolds
I will try and help with your Bosch Washing Machine WFL2480AU/04 problem.
Good afternoon Paul, the first thing I would check is the carbon brushes sometimes they can stick in the holders the way I rectify this problem if the brushes are still in good condition but feel like they’re jamming inside the holder is to use a very fine sandpaper and Sand the sides of the carbon brushes so that they slide down the holder easily, if this does not rectify the problem I suspect the motor has an intermittent fault as the circuit boards on these machines are usually quite good you should be able to find a second-hand motor on eBay as a new motor is way too expensive there are some detail videos on the Bosch motors on how to take them apart and I have also put an exploded diagram of your machine with all the parts available for it new and second hand listed at the bottom of the page.
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Common Bosch Washing Machine WFL2480AU/04 faults with links to the right repair guide
- The machine won’t fill with water
Make sure the door is properly closed, check that inlet hoses are clear and not kinked and that the water supply is connected and functioning. Water valve may be faulty See our video on water valves
- The drum doesn’t turn
There are a number of things that can cause this, including worn carbon brushes, drive belt problems, or a faulty motor or control unit PCB. On new machines with 3 phase motors or inverter motors, they get a lot of control board faults
- The machine stops mid-cycle
This generally means that the timer, thermostat, or heater had failed. The washing machine may stop due to these faults or the water rinse valve may be faulty or the machine has not emptied the water out of the drum in an allocated period of time.
- The washing machine is noisy
A rattle, while the drum is moving, could be due to something stuck in the drum, coins and bra wires are common culprits. You may be able to remove the drum paddles to get to the offending item or remove the sump hose or heater. It’s also worth checking the drain filter to make sure that’s clear. A noisy washing machine may also indicate failed or worn bearings or drum spider. Try turning the drum by hand when the machine is empty. If you hear a rumbling noise or can feel ‘play’ in the drum, it’s likely that the bearings need replacing. You can also get drum spring or shock absorber problems.
- Water not draining from the washing machine
This usually means there’s a blockage in the drainage filter, or the pump itself has failed. The first thing you’ll want to do is empty the water so you can rescue your laundry. Pull out the drain hose, pop it into a bucket and let gravity do the work. Also, check the sump hose and waste pipe if fitted to a sink unit the problem can also be the connection.
- The washing machine won’t spin
Problems with the spin cycle are relatively common washing machine faults, if your machine knows there is water still in the drum it will not allow the drum to spin it must empty in an allocated period of time. The good news is that they’re generally relatively inexpensive and simple to fix. Balance sensors will override the cycle if the clothes are unevenly distributed and could cause the machine to vibrate. This can happen if you’ve overloaded the washer, or if you’re trying to spin just a few items. Try reloading light loads or removing a few items from heavy ones. If this fails, motor carbon brushes may need to be replaced. On new machines with 3 phase motors or inverter motors, they get a lot of control board faults
- The door won’t open
This will usually be due to water not draining, or a faulty door lock. Drain manually as above. If that doesn’t fix the problem you may be able to remove the top of the machine and release the lock from the inside see videos.
- Clothes smell bad
If you always use low-temperature washes and biological detergents you could have a build-up of bacteria or even mold in the machine. Try running a hot empty wash once a week. You should also clean out the soap dispenser regularly, and leave the machine door open to air after you’ve removed the washing.
- The washing machine is damaging clothes
Tears in clothes indicate foreign bodies in the machine or damage to the drum.
10.The washing machine is constantly filling with water
the machine is siphoning or water valve is leaking
11.The machine reports a fault code or error code
Error codes can be on the display or given in certain lights flashing sequences. Washing machine fault codes are not universal but may only point you or an engineer in the right direction they are not 100% accurate they are only that for guidance. Your owner’s manual may help you identify the problem and even suggest a fix. In other cases, you’ll need an engineer to trace the fault. Don’t be tempted to ignore a fault code, even if the machine seems to be functioning normally. Some codes are ‘early warning signs’ and fixing the machine at an early stage could save you time and money in the long run. Contact us with the full model number and detailed description
