Midea Counter Top Dishwashers Common Problems & Dismantling Video

Having trouble with your AEG, Cookology, Currys Essentials, Electrolux, or Zanussi freestanding countertop dishwasher? Find answers to the most common problems, repair tips, and a full dismantling guide. Learn how to troubleshoot, clean, and maintain your compact dishwasher to keep it running efficiently.

Paul Charmbury

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Common Problems (Troubleshooting Guide)

Q: Why won’t my dishwasher start?

• Power Supply: Make sure the mains plug is connected and the fuse in your fuse box is not damaged.
• Door Is Not Closed: Ensure the door is fully closed and latched.
• Defective Door Switch: The door switch or lock assembly may be faulty and not telling the machine it is closed.
• Delay Start: Check if the delay start timer is set. You may need to cancel it or wait for the countdown to end.

Q: Why isn’t my dishwasher filling with water? (Error Code E1)

• The E1 error code indicates a “Longer inlet time”.
• Check Water Supply: Make sure your home’s water tap is turned on.
• Low Water Pressure: The appliance requires a minimum water pressure. If pressure is too low, it won’t fill properly.
• Clogged Hose/Valve: The inlet hose or the filter inside the inlet valve may be clogged.
• Defective Inlet Valve: The water fill (inlet) valve itself may be defective and need replacing.

Q: Why won’t my dishwasher drain?

• Clogged Filters: This is the most common cause. Remove and thoroughly clean the filter system (coarse, fine, and main filters).
• Drain Hose: Ensure the drain hose is not kinked, blocked, or improperly connected. If connected to a sink spigot, ensure the plastic membrane inside the spigot has been removed.
• Defective Drain Pump: The drain pump may be jammed or defective and require replacement.

Q: My dishwasher is leaking or showing an E4 “Overfilled” error.

• The E4 error code means the anti-flood device is on.
• Immediate Action: The user manual advises to “Close the water tap and contact an Authorised Service Centre”.
• Technical Cause: This is often caused by a leak, which has activated the “floater assembly” (a micro-switch for overflow safeguard) in the base of the machine. The machine will need to be disassembled to find the source of the leak and check this switch.

Q: Why are my dishes still dirty? (Poor Washability)

• Improper Loading: You may be blocking the spray arm. Ensure the sprayer can spin freely before starting a wash.
• Clogged Spray Arm: Check the holes in the spray arm. If they are clogged, use a thin pointed object to clear the debris.
• Clogged Filters: Dirty filters are a primary cause of poor washing. Clean them regularly.
• Incorrect Program: You may be using a program that is too light for the soil level (e.g., using a 30-min “Quick Plus” for heavy, dried-on food).
• Detergent: You may be using too little detergent, or the detergent is old.

Q: Why are my dishes wet, or have spots and streaks?

• Rinse Aid: The rinse aid dispenser is likely empty. Refill it. You can also adjust the rinse aid dosage level (the factory setting is 3, but you can set it from 1 to 4).
• Salt Container: The salt container is empty. Refill it with dishwasher-specific salt.
• Water Softener Setting: The water softener level may be set incorrectly for your area’s water hardness.
• Program Choice: You may have selected a program without a drying phase.

Q: Why isn’t the water heating? (Error Code E3)

• The E3 error indicates the “Required temperature is not reached”.
• Defective Heating Element: The heating element, which is part of the heating pump assembly, may have failed.
• Defective Thermal Resistor (NTC): The temperature sensor (NTC) may be faulty.
• Defective Pressure Switch: A micro-switch in the pressure switch assembly may be defective, preventing the heater from activating.
  

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How to Access Door & Control Panel Components

To Remove the Control Panel:

1. Open the dishwasher door.
2. You will see several screws along the top and sides of the inner door. Remove all the screws that are fixing the control panel to the door assembly.
3. The control panel can now be carefully pulled away.

To Remove the Operating Board (the “buttons” PCB):

1. First, remove the control panel as shown above.
2. Disconnect all the wire housings connecting to the operating board.
3. Remove the screw(s) and unfix all the plastic snaps that hold the green operating board to the control panel.

To Remove the Detergent/Rinse Aid Dispenser:

1. First, remove the outer door panel (this is different from the control panel) by opening the door and removing all the screws fixing it in place.
2. With the outer panel off, you can see the dispenser.
3. Pull off all the electrical terminals connected to the dispenser.
4. Remove all the screws that fix the dispenser to the inner door panel.
5. The dispenser will now come out.

To Remove the Door Lock Assembly:

1. First, remove the main outer shell (Step 1).
2. Locate the door lock assembly at the top of the chassis.
3. Unfit the plastic snap holding the assembly in place and push it out.
4. Pull out the “locking terminals” (wires) from the microswitch on the lock assembly.
   

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How to Access Internal Components (Filters & Spray Arm)

To Clean the Filter System:

1. This is a user-level task. No tools are needed.
2. Inside the dishwasher, turn the “fine filter” (part B) counter-clockwise and lift the entire filter assembly out.
3. Pull the “coarse filter” (part A) out from the “fine filter” (part B).
4. Wash all parts thoroughly under running water.

To Clean the Spray Arm:

• Note: The user manual states: “Do not remove the spray arm”.
• To clean it, simply check the holes. If they are clogged with soil, use a thin pointed object (like a toothpick) to clear the debris.
  

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How to Access Base Components (Pumps, Main Board, etc.)

1. Preparation: Disconnect power. Remove the basket, cutlery basket, and the filter system from inside the dishwasher.
2. Turn Over: Carefully turn the dishwasher machine over to access the bottom.
3. Remove Bottom Cover: Locate the “cover of bottom board”. Unfix all the plastic snaps around its edge and remove the cover. You now have access to all the main components.

To Remove the Main Control Board (PCB):

1. The main board is located inside a “protecting box” in the base.
2. CRITICAL: Before you unplug anything, mark all the housings and terminals’ positions and colors. Take a photo with your phone.
3. Carefully pull out all housings and terminals (note: some may be locking terminals you need to unclip).
4. Unfix all the snaps holding the main control board into the protecting box and lift it out.

To Remove the Drain Pump:

1. Locate the drain pump.
2. Pull out the electrical terminals connected to it.
3. Unfit the snap that locks the pump in place.
4. “Contrarotate” (twist) the drain pump assembly to unlock it from its housing, and then pull it out.

To Remove the Inlet Valve (Fill Valve):

1. Locate the inlet valve where the main water hose connects to the machine.
2. Pull out the electrical terminals.
3. Using pliers, release the clamp holding the connecting hose to the valve.
4. “Contrarotate” (twist) the inlet valve to take it out from its housing.

To Remove the Heating Pump Motor Assembly (Circulation Pump):

1. This is the largest component in the base, combining the main wash motor and the heating element.
2. Pull out all terminals from the motor and the heating element section.
3. Remove the metal clamps that fix the assembly to the sump (the central part of the tub).
4. Unfit the “motor hungers” (rubber mounts) that fix the assembly to the bottom board.
5. The entire assembly can now be lifted out for replacement.