Help on Fridge with ice box freestanding or integrated

by / Sunday, 25 September 2016 / Published in Fridge & Freezer

How to find faults and repair a fridge

This article will show you how a conventional fridge with an ice box works. We will be looking at the cycle of the fridge over a few days with our graphing system where the data is supplied by our unique fridge test equipment which will be available later in the year.
I will be explaining how to fridge cycle Works and how the areas within the fridge stay cold, we will also look at the common faults and how to rectify them.

Common faults

If all your food in the fridge is getting too cold and the drinks are freezing then this may be a thermostat problem.
If the fridge is not getting cold you need to check if the compressor is running,
If the compressor is not running then it is normally one of 3 faults.
1. Thermostat failure
2. Starter relay failure
3. The motor has gone open circuit.
If the motor is running then you may have a gas leak problem.
There is not enough gas in the system for the refrigeration cycle to take place, or the compressor is not pumping the gas around the refrigeration circuit this can be due to a weak compressor, or a blockage in the system (sometimes the dryers block)

Notes on compressors

Compressor Running:
The compressor is a motor which pumps gas around the circuit, you can tell when a compressor is running because they get warm and you can hear it running if you listen closely. They have a starter relay on them which shuts the compressor into life, they also have an overload relay this is designed to protect the motor, Both of these can sometimes go faulty and need to be tested you can see our other videos on these.

Compressor Not Running:

The compressor may be cold and you will not be able to hear a noise apart from.
When a compressor is not running you may here a clicking noise every few minutes this may be the overload sensor cutting out due to a faulty starter relay or compressor.
A useful technique is using a screwdriver, placing the pointy end on to the motor of the compressor and the handle to your ear you may hear a humming noise this will be the windings as the motor is trying to start.

You can test compressors 


It's a good idea to verify that the compressor is OK: Use a multi-meter (make sure fridge is unplugged!) and check resistance across each pair of pins on the compressor itself (3 combinations total). Two of your readings should be smaller than the third (the two have the same resistance on my fridge), and the third should be total of the two (see diagram, R-S goes through C). For example: S to C 4 ohm, R to C 4 ohm, R to S 8 ohm. If it is significantly off from this sum-total rule, you're probably have to get a new compressor as the windings are not good. You should also check that the windings are not shorted to chassis (either of the three pins should not go to chassis which is the earth)

Thermostats can go open circuit or not cycle at the correct temperature range


over load sensors can go open circuit due to by-metal strip failing


Starter relays come in many shapes and sizes and fail often

2 Responses to “Help on Fridge with ice box freestanding or integrated”

  1. Chris says : Reply

    Can. You please tell me what HOTPOINT UH6 F1C W UK.1 repair guide I can get it is 2016 2years old

  2. Daniel says : Reply

    Hello there (not sure if your name is Paul)
    First of all I would like to thank you for taking your time to share these tutorials and all the help you are providing. You are surely helping a lot of people and I find it a very kind and caring gesture to taking all this time.
    My problem is on a small fridge with a freezing top compartment. The problem seems to be a very common one on fridges apparently…the dreaded clicking every few seconds with compressor not running.
    I have tested the compressor with a multimeter and the values seem to be all good, condluding in a way that the compressor is still fine. I checked the starter relay and although it seemed to be giving good results on my multimeter parts of the housing broke off and I noticed some age related corrosion on the contacts inside. So I purchased what seems to be the same rating relay…however the problem remains the same.
    I have checked the overload sensor to see what is happening during this process and noticed that on the inside it turns red-hot just before it clicks.
    The last thing I checked was for any humming in the compressor, and it does seem to have a very low hum, which means that it is trying to start.
    I am a bit lost now. As illogical as it might seem I am thinking I might have the wrong rated relay (I tried another with a bigger rating but didn’t solve the problem). If the relay is good than, as illogical as it may seem the compressor must have something wrong.
    So….I am now reverting to your kind help. Is there anything I am missing or that I can check before I see if it’s worth installing a new compressor and the labour it might cot to refill with gas, or purchase a new fridge, please?
    The model details are: Zanussi, model: DR 50/2 /A. Type B 23230 X. Capacity 140l. Gas R 12 0.08Kg. 90W/0.7A. Class N.
    Many many thanks in advance!

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