Printed Circuit Board Repairs for Tumble dryers AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi Etc

by / Thursday, 18 December 2014 / Published in Tumble Dryers

The video is on a common repair that i have to do on the ENV06 PCB and will show you just one of the faults that can occur 


Even if you’re not a technician or an engineer, some Tumble dryer printed circuit board problems are obvious. Some common and simple problems can cause a printed circuit board not to work.
A thorough visual inspection of your tumble dryer PCB could save you having to buy a new board they can cost over £150 plus a needless engineers bill. Don’t be afraid to have a look. Just make sure your power is turned off to make sure you don’t get an electric shock.

The front of a Printed circuit board  Env 06

The front of a Printed circuit board Env 06

The back of a Printed circuit board  Env 06

The back of a Printed circuit board Env 06

board in housing

Make sure it’s unplugged from the electric supply, now check all the connections are good tight and the pins are clean as you can get corrosion build up due to moister. You can Remove the cover from your tumble dryer PCB.

If the previous has not cured your problem you now need to remove the printed circuit board from the tumble dryer facial panel. Dryer covers are held on with screws and clips; this can vary from on different manufactures and models of tumble dryer.

A typical blown track on a tumble dryer

A typical blown track on a tumble dryer

Look out for Dry joints

Look out for Dry joints

Make sure all the terminal connections are clean and not corroded a biro rubber does a great job

Make sure all the terminal connections are clean and not corroded a biro rubber does a great job

Look out for burnt joints

Look out for burnt joints

The first inspection should be to check all the tracks on the circuit board look for water damage and also burnt tracks, due to the nature of the appliance there can be quite a lot of humidity on the board especially if the dryer has been kept in a very cold room or garage. Condenser dryers are more prone to this than normal vented dryers.


You are having to go into the realms of Electronics and if you do not know what you are doing you can cause more harm than good. You need to check for signs of damage to Components like Capacitors, Resistors, Diodes, Triac’s and the link Switch which fails so often on this type of tumble dryer. (Please note that when the LNK 304GN u. TNY264G blows the 47R Resistor also has blown) and you need to check all the Resistors & Diodes. I have put together a load of pictures on these Env 06 boards so you can get an idea of what to look for.




These pictures will help you understand some of the common chips that blow and there not always obvious

blown link Switch LNK 304GN and 47R Resistor

common chips to fail on tumble dryers

cutting the link Switch LNK 304GN

A typical blown track on a tumble dryer

A typical blown track on a tumble dryer

link switch removed

Resistor 47R before and after

Tumble dryer resistors & diodes to check


304 link switch


If you are not sure take the circuit board to someone that does what they are doing!!

Circuit Board numbers Env 06- 125988033 theses are fitted to all these makes  Electrolux, AEG, Arthur Martin, Elektro Helios, Eureka, Faure, Frigidaire, Gibson Appliance, Husqvarna, Kelvinator, Marijnen, Parkinson Cowan, Progress, Simpson, Tornado, Tricity Bendix, Volta, Westinghouse, Zanker, Zanussi, Zoppas,

71 Responses to “Printed Circuit Board Repairs for Tumble dryers AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi Etc”

  1. Helder Ferreira says : Reply


    I have a Zanussi ZTE 285 dryer and it was dead. I exange R76 (47ohm) Lnk304 and a resitor that was on position L3, by the colors seems to me to be of 10 ohm. I plug only the main board to power and the display is bliking and I also ear the buzzer intermitent.
    Any ideas to solve this problem?


  2. Dave Derham says : Reply

    Hi Paul
    I’ve just finished repairing our tumble dryer and it works!! Thanks for the video. I have just bought you a couple of beers.

  3. Vicente Caiafa says : Reply

    Hi, i need your help, i have the same printed circuit but i have a transistor broken e i need the number to can change it. If is posible i can send you a picture to show you wat transistor i mean

  4. Plamen Kochev says : Reply

    My dryer AEG was dead. I replace INK304 and 47om resistor and it work 10 sec and stoped error E32. What to do?

  5. Michel de Pooter says : Reply

    Good evening,

    Having some problems with a AEG T55840 Prod No: 916 096 276-15.
    We actually haven’t used the dryer that much, but now there is no power to the machine at all. Could you tell me how to read the error (if there is one), and does this dryer also hold the Env 06 circuit board?

    Hope to hear from you soon.

  6. Mike says : Reply

    Thanks for info. Quite difficult to fine something like this in the net

  7. Mike says : Reply

    Replaced LNK304 and resistor R76 ( 47 or 43 Ohm forgot; it’s written there. But not 47 kOhm). And…. working)))))
    Before was no lights at all with power connected.

  8. JAN HENRICSSON says : Reply

    Very good videos. Most helpful.

    I wonder why a tool like ODB for cars is not available for Washing machines, dryers and other house hold products.
    A lot of people give up after a few years and buy a new equipment because it is only a cheap electronic
    component that failed or a bad soldering at only one place.

    This is bad for the economy and bad for the environment too.

    ODB system is standard since more then 30 years and fit all car brands. It is time for companies like Electrolux, Bosch, Samsung and more to step up a lot.

  9. Lennart Nordberg says : Reply

    Hello, I have an Electrolux edh97941w heat pump tumble dryer that has the error code 32 (3 red and 2 Green flashes), the cables and both brushes are intact, any idea what parts on the circuit board that can be faulty, or is it just to buy a new board and hope that it works? Wbr Lennart Nordberg

  10. Joe Peka says : Reply

    Hello sir hope you are well. Could you please give me the details for TYACS2 it is blown and I can’t see the value.. the last digits I see are W6E could you help?

    Warm regards joe

  11. Adam Q says : Reply

    Hi thanks for the great tips, and the comments too are quite illuminating.
    I have some suggestions for those people who (like me) found that the input resistor was quite toasted, and therefore the colour code bands were difficult to read. This is: go on any reasonable online auction site and find the replacement board for your machine. Some of the adverts will have quite high-resolution photographs of the board. Zoom in on the power resistor and then read off the value.

    In my case the board in question was for a Beko DRCS68W or similar. There is a very similar input curcuit and switcher, then then supplies a 5V regulator. On my board the first thing I noticed that was wrong was a hole in the 7805 regulator plastic, so that’s been swapped out for a heftier through-hole one. Then having read this article, I checked the input resistor, R4 in my case, infinite, and a bit toasty. Couldn’t read the bands but searches revealed brown, white, black, gold so 19 ohms I thought. However having slept on it I realised that this isn’t an E12 series standard value (especially with 5% tolerance!) and have re-imagined the brown to be a toasted orange – 39 ohms. A standard value and quite similar to your circuit values too. Next up is to source the LNK364 switcher, because the one on there seems to be drawing rather a lot of current.

  12. Embee says : Reply


    In the 7th picture there is a black diode where the circuit is labelled TRSB1. I appear to have an open circuit in this component. What is the specification for this component?


  13. Tim says : Reply

    Hi there, Thanks for your really detailed videos. I have an AEG Tumble which is giving an E51 code. I’ve swapped two capacitors and still the fault remains. It seems to happen after 3 minutes and just after the drum has rotated again. After restarting several times it will do a full cycle. I have removed the PCB and I measured the Resistor in situ – This measured 47 – identical to your measurement on the video. I’m sure it’s not ideal to measure in situ – if this is a Triac (sp) failure would it not fault all the time rather than 9 times out of 10?

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