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Is it possible to obtain a wiring diagram for Bosch WAE24063GB/27 washing machine model?

I’ve replaced the pressure switch with a new one. The pressure switch operates at the working fill level (I can here a click and measure the change in continuity using a meter). It also activates the pump out when it hits max level.

Pressure hose and chamber are all clear and ok.

I’ve checked all connections to the main PCB and there is continuity on the wires between the contacts on the PCB and the pressure switch. It appears that the one leg of the heater is supplied via a the pressure switch but I would like to confirm this via diagrams.

The fault was intermittent but now is constant. Suspect PCB?

After fitting the original Bosch drain pump, following your tutorial, I connected up, but as soon as I turned the rotary program dial for a rinse, it seemed to not want to do anything, then lock failed, finally lights went out on the control panel.
Removed the control panel and there was a decent amount of black smoke stain around a coil, cleaned the boards up a little, but cannot get a reading for for this coil and a couple of resistors close by. 13 year old machine, little used. Is there a likely connection between the two faults, or is it just bad luck? where does one get coils etc for repairs?
Kind Regards
I will try and help with your Bosch Washing Machine WAE28162GB/05 problem.
This sounds like you created a short on the machine and have blown the printed circuit board or PCB the best way for you to move forward is to find a second-hand PCB using either your model number or you could use the part number in the exploded diagram below to find the part

Terminal block on motor has eight positions with six actual steel pins + earth pin. Washing machine motor was noisy then eventually seized (tub bearings are fine – not noisy, and no play with them). Brushes were all good – replaced a year ago. Rear bearing on motor shaft had seized and partially broken up – couldn’t turn motor shaft. Bearing shop removed the back bearing (next to the tacho) and also the front bearing (near the pulley) and replaced them.

Put motor back in and water and everything fill fine (PCB panel seems to be all good -indicator lights working and clicks when it should). Motor starts moving then stops – doesn’t keep going. Is it the tacho? I have a DMM – are there any basic checks I can do? I checked the supression capacitor, but it looks fine! Motor looks fine with no observable damage. Stumped! Can you suggest anything?

Pulled out motor and replaced both motor front and rear bearings.[Motor had a seized rear bearing and the machine stopped turning one day.]. Everything else was fine.

Put motor back in, and now on wash or spin everything looks fine but the electric motor spins for a second or so and stops – this happens on wash and spin!? Drain works fine. Wondering if when the motor seized it caused some other issue with the motor, PCB or even the suppression capacitor. Nothing visually obvious and no smells or sounds, though I haven’t taken the PCB out to have a look? Tacho, stator/armature windings, PCB? Stumped. Can you help?

Motor seized up (had been noisy for several weeks)! Replaced both motor bearings (rear one had partially disintegrated) – bit tricky using a puller to remove them!

All put back nicely, but motor now turns once or twice and then stops! Water goes in, water pumps out – no issues. If it’s on wash, or rinse, or spin everything seems fine, but when the motor has to turn it only turns once or twice and then stops? Is it the motor (commutator or coils) – need a new motor, or potentially could the PCB have suffered damage originally when the motor seized? Controls and everything appear fine, it’s just that the motor starts but then can’t continue!